GrapeHops Blog

Sunday night, Paolo met us at the hotel at 6:30 and we made the trek out to Grado Plato in Chieri. It’s about a thirty minute drive from Torino, in the hills that border the city. Grado Plato started out in 2003 with a bar and beer making operation all in one room. Recently (August/September, I believe) they moved their beer production to a facility five minutes away, which allowed them to open up their dining room (personally, I think this would be a great setting for some live music on the weekends), though they still have some of the copper piping in the room as decoration.

When we entered we first spoke with Giorgio, the manager, going through our concepts and some ideas, then Gabrielle, the son of the brew master, who shared some of his ideas with us too. Both seem enthusiastic about the concept and eager to show off their product. Unfortunately though, their production had been limited of late because of the move, so we were only able to try four of their beers through the course of the meal (they normally have nine to 12 different beers in the works and an affiliation with Piazza Miestieri (which is another story).

When we arrived, while some patrons sat at the bar, we were the only ones in the dining room. However, it soon filled with patrons of all ages, enjoying beer in various size glasses, including a uber-mug that must have been a liter’s worth.

Sveva Birra Chiara

Now Grado Plato has it going on with the beer, in a two pronged attack; not only do they brew beer but they cook with the beer they brew! So for a starter, the chef (another Gabrielle), sent out a tasting plate containing their risotto with beer and speck. I’m going to be honest here, I applaud the initiative but found the risotto a little bitter from the beer. I think, if I were to try this at home, I might leave out the speck, and contrast the bitterness of the risotto with a drizzle of some really good (or some really cheap but reduced) balsamic vinegar. The other half of the plate was a tasty tasting of their tegole (think rough cut tagliatelle), in a simple tomato sauce with small bits of meat. The twist on this dish, is that when they make the pasta, they work a bit of their beer (their Spoon River) into the dough. I could have eaten a huge bowl of this stuff.

Ah, almost forgot, before we had our primi, they served their sveva birra chiara (aka light – not in terms of calories, in terms of color). This beer had a good head, was pale golden in color, left some good lacing on the glass and had a slightly bitter after taste. It did not have a lot of hops in flavor. If I’m hanging out on a hot summer day, this is the type of beer I’d reach for.

Spoon River

While enjoying our primi, they brought out their Spoon River beer, an amber beer that actually reminds me more of an IPA as it’s fruity and hoppy in flavor. It has very little carbonation and accompanies the rich primi rather nicely (probably because it is used as an ingredient in both dishes).

For our secondi, we’re brought out a plate with another two samplings. One is a scallopini of veal with a hops cream sauce. Again, like the risotto, I find the sauce a tad too bitter or off with no contrasting flavor. The other dish though, I could eat every week I think and never get tired of it, it’s a goulash, made with peppers, mushrooms and of course, more of the spoon river beer (Goulash alla birra, spezzatino di vitello picante, con pepperoni, funghi, birra Spoon River). My mouth is watering even now as I think about it.

Sticher

With our secondi, Gabriele brings us their Sticher (aka Sticke in German) beer. It’s dark and rich, and once I again clarify in my mind the difference between port and stout, I’ll better be able to describe it (though I’m leaning towards stout). It has a gorgeous head, excellent lacing, chocolate undertones, and would stand up well to any dish with which you might pair a big bold red wine. It’s the only one of their beers made entirely of Italy (i.e., their other beers use American hops but this beer uses all ingredients grown/made in Italy, specifically from the area around Chieri). We all agree it’s our favorite.

For dessert, we’re brought another tasting, a chestnut tort with beer gelato (using their Melissa beer). Yes, you read that right, it’s gelato made with beer and before you wrinkle your noses, believe me, it was delicious, almost floral in flavor.

Beer Gelato and Chestnut Tort

With dessert they served us their chestnut beer, San Felice, a brown beer (think Samuel Smith), named for the San Felice road that connects Torino to Chieri and along which chestnuts grow.

San Felice Beer

All, in all, another good night, with some really good beer and good food to go along with.